contrast

contrast noun |ˈkänˌtrast| the state of being strikingly different from something else, typically something in juxtaposition or close association





























both sets of these photos are armenia. both sets of photos are of places you one can stay: a camping area in the northern region of Tavush, and the Golden Palace Hotel in Yerevan. traditional v. modern. pastoral v. cosmopolitan. both sets of photos were taken in September of the year 2006.
































i love juxtaposition. uniformity is stagnant, so interest is created by conflict is it not? it's beautiful that both of these spaces exist simultaneously.

"Best of" Day 2

How to show 2 non- Armenians a fabulous time in Armenia, Day 2

1. Grab a professional repat who really knows his way around because he has been living in Armenia for 7 years already and has even written his share of travel books on the country (Raffi), AND your favorite tour guide/collegue (Arshak) and plan a road trip for the day!

2. Start by renting a car from Lemon Rent-a-Car (rest assured that all the Americans here have already acknowledged the humor in the name of this company). Our trusty volkswagen is pictured below.

3. First stop: the always stunning Lake Sevan from the vantage point of the peninsula, where the monastery of Sevanavank stands. Lake Sevan covers 5% of Armenia's surface area and is nestled inside the Geghama mountain range at 2,000 meters above sea level. The waters seem to change from crystal blue, to deep purple to turqouise depending on the time of day. We point out to our guests that it's customary for the locals to sell fish that they have caught from the lake on the side of the road. How do you know who's fish are best? Apparently size does matter and each vendor tries to boast by showing you through his armspan just how big the fish he caught are!

5. Stop for another meal of Khorovats, on the banks of a river that runs through Dilijan. We happened to catch the photo-op of the year as a group of WWII veterans were assembled in honor of May 9th, victory day.




















6. Cruise further north still into the depths of the lush Tavush region and check out Haghartsin Monastary nesstled in the rolling hills...a stop made even more amusing if you manage to stumble upon a group of locals throwing themselves a party in the middle of the mountain, complete with accordion playing, singing and drinking. You must, of course, join in for a toast or two!

7. Meet the old man and woman who bake sweet bread and sell it by the church, and offer to help them...chop wood?!

8. Stop through the actual town of Dilijan and walk around. The Tufenkian foundations is renovating this old street to make it a site for artisans to set up workshops and sell their crafts.

9. Head back to Yerevan in time to catch the ARMENIAN NAVY BAND's last performance in town for the season! They play at their own venue, called Avante-Gard which is always cozy and packed with the Navy Band's adoring fans. There really isn't a way to describe how incredible and unique this band is, so you'll just have to come see one of their shows for yourself.

"Best of" Day 1

How to show 2 non-Armenians a fabulous time in Armenia in just 3 days:

1. First and foremost, those people should be wonderful people themselves who have the open mind and itch to find out more about the world! Let me introduce mine: Steph, my best friend from high school and Dace (pronounced Dat-sey) from Riga, Latvia.
2. When they come in tired and broken from being squeezed into a mini-bus sharing seats with babushkas and being married off by said babushkas on a 7 hour ride from Tblisi, Georgia take them out for their first taste of KHOROVATZ (armenian bbq) and Armenian red wine at the Caucasus Tavern.
3. Let the weary traveler's sleep in and head out for a day of touring after tea and breakfast. Hire a driver to take you to three of the heavy hitters: The pagan temple of Garni, 13th century Geghart Monastery, and the Holy See- Etchmiadzin (the Vatican of the Armenian church). In retrospect, interestingly enough, this little triumvirate makes for a nice breezy tour of the relgious progression of Armenia as a nation...

Of course the travelling day couldn't be complete without a stop at a local store to purchase fresh bread, cucumbers, tomatos and cheese for an open air picnic on the road!


4. Come back to Yerevan, and have authentic DOLMA (stuffed grapeleaves) for dinner at the adorable The CLUB restaurant.

Furthermore, if your guest shows even an inkling of interest in finding out what Tutti Oghi might be (mulberry vodka), it would be unfathomable not to have a shot or two so she can taste the potent liquor (80% alcohol!) for herself. Be prepared to stumble around for the rest of the night...it's not suprising to find yourselves acting like fools at a local bar later on...